FRIDAY, APRIL 10, 2026VOL. XXVI · NO. 17
FashionDispatch

Jacob & Co. Doesn't Care What the Watch Industry Thinks of It

The Godfather II watch is technically serious and culturally shameless — and the coverage keeps missing the point.

By Chasing Seconds · APRIL 9, 20262 minute read

Photo · SJX Watches

The watch industry has a comfort zone. Complications exist to demonstrate mastery. Dials reference heritage. Inspiration, if it comes from anywhere, comes from architecture or aviation or the bottom of the sea. What it almost never comes from is a Francis Ford Coppola film.

Jacob & Co. does not care.

The Godfather II watch — a sequel to the Opera Godfather — is built around a musical complication that plays the film's theme. The movement architecture has been refined from the first version. The craft involved is real. SJX documented the horological specifics in detail, and the conclusion is clear: this is not a novelty piece hiding behind a famous name. The engineering is serious.

But the engineering was never the story.

The Industry Keeps Grading the Wrong Test

Every piece of coverage on this watch eventually settles into the same groove: acknowledge the spectacle, then pivot to the mechanics, then arrive at some version of legitimacy. As if the goal is to rescue Jacob & Co. from its own aesthetic. As if the brand needs rescuing.

It doesn't. Jacob Arabo has been making watches like this for two decades. SJX's broader retrospective on the brand makes clear that this maximalism — both the gem-set variety and the purely technical — has been consistent, deliberate, and increasingly sophisticated. This isn't a brand that stumbled into complicated watchmaking. It's a brand that decided complicated watchmaking should also be allowed to have a personality.

The Godfather trilogy is Arabo's personal obsession. That's not marketing language. It's the actual origin of the object. The watch exists because someone loved a film enough to build a miniature theater inside a case. That's a stranger and more interesting creative act than most of what gets celebrated in Basel or Geneva.

What Pop Culture Objects Actually Cost

The Robb Report framed the new piece as strictly business — a nod to the franchise, a signal of intent. Fair enough. But the framing still treats cultural reference as a liability to be managed rather than a position worth holding.

Here's what's true across all three sources, even if none of them say it directly: Jacob & Co. is the only watch brand operating at this technical level that is also fully, unapologetically a pop culture object. Not pop-adjacent. Not pop-inspired with a tasteful nod. Pop. The Godfather II watch is a film souvenir that happens to contain one of the more unusual musical complications in independent watchmaking. Both things are completely true. The industry's discomfort with that coexistence is the industry's problem, not Jacob & Co.'s.

Icons don't ask permission. Neither does this watch.

End — Filed from the desk