THURSDAY, MAY 7, 2026VOL. XXVI · NO. 17
Fashion

Shorts or Culottes? Highsnobiety Just Collapsed the Question.

A newsletter take on hemlines is really a quiet argument about how fashion's old categories are losing their grip.

By Chasing Seconds · MAY 6, 20262 minute read

Photo · Highsnobiety

The Reframe

Somewhere between a newsletter and a product recommendation, Highsnobiety made a move worth pausing on. A recent edition of their Shopper column posed the question directly: are the best shorts actually just culottes? It's the kind of question that reads like bait until you sit with it for a moment and realize it isn't.

Because the question isn't about shorts. It's about what happens when a garment stops behaving the way its category promised.

Culottes have always occupied an uncomfortable middle space — too wide to read as tailored, too short to read as a skirt, too structured to read as casual. Shorts, meanwhile, carry their own freight: athletic, relaxed, gendered in ways that shift depending on who's wearing them. For decades these two things lived in separate drawers, literally and conceptually. What Highsnobiety is suggesting, quietly but clearly, is that the drawer is gone.

What It Means That Someone Said It

The interesting thing isn't the styling advice. It's the timing. Fashion commentary has spent the better part of a few seasons cataloguing the collapse of rigid dress codes — the end of occasion-specific dressing, the blurring of suiting and sportswear, the way a single garment now has to perform across contexts that used to require an entire separate wardrobe. What Highsnobiety is doing here is applying that same logic to something as ostensibly simple as shorts.

And that's where it gets sharp. If the best version of a short is functionally a culotte, then the category label isn't describing the garment anymore — it's just a legacy tag we haven't bothered to remove. The product has evolved past the vocabulary.

This happens in fashion more than people admit. A sneaker stops being athletic footwear and becomes dress code-neutral. A blazer stops signaling office and starts signaling effort. The garment drifts, the word stays. Eventually someone writes a newsletter column and the drift becomes official.

There's something honest about naming it. Not every publication would. Most would just show you the wide-leg shorts and let you connect the dots. Highsnobiety made the argument explicit, which means they're not just covering fashion — they're interpreting it, which is the harder job.

Whether you find the culotte framing liberating or slightly absurd probably depends on your relationship with categories in the first place. Some people need them. They're a compass. Others find them a ceiling. The fact that a mainstream fashion newsletter is now publishing takes that gently dismantle these boundaries suggests the audience has shifted — or is being asked to.

Either way, the shorts in your closet are being quietly reclassified. Might be worth checking the fit.

End — Filed from the desk